When I spotted Sonja Gortzak-Hughes using her Silhouette to create stencils and templates (stemplates!), I knew this was a technique you needed to know about! Sonja has graciously agreed to share her secrets for how to create stencils with the Silhouette. Here’s Sonja!
Making Stencils on the Silhouette or Silhouette Cameo
Creating a Stencil in Silhouette Studio
In this tutorial, we’re going to make a stencil design on our Silhouette or Cameo using the Silhouette Studio software, and then cut it from a clear acetate or transparency to use over and over again. Ready? Here we go!
Open Silhouette Studio. Set your ‘Page’ size to match your sheet. Mine is an A4, but for US it might be Letter or even 12X12. You can even set your own measurements (if you have a random piece of material)
Find a stencil design in your library or the Silhouette online store:
You can pick a specific stencil design or you can make a design into a stencil; in that case pick something that would be suitable for a stencil.
For this tutorial I am using the Lori Whitlock Music Notes
Because this is only a set of shapes, we need to make a few small adjustments to make it suitable as a stencil (skip the next 4 steps if you have a ready to go stencil design):
4. Now, using the rounded corners tool on the left of your workspace, draw a rectangle about the whole design. Leave ample space on either side of the design. (This is not necessary if you have downloaded a stencil. It will already have this space.)
If you’d like, you can group them again so that you can move the whole stencil design in one go. Be sure to click on the pointer button in the left-hand menu first or else you’ll draw another box.
Note: If you are creating a stencil with a large shape you might not need to do the “rounded corners” because you can just use your entire sheet of material as the stencil. I would probably still round the corners so they don’t get caught behind things when you use them later.
Cutting the Stencil
Before you send your design to the Silhouette, place your design a bit away from the edges of your page. In my experience, if you cut too close to the edge the cutting knife tends to get caught under the sheet and will not cut but just crumple up your material.
Now press the “Send to Silhouette” button and click on “Change Settings.”
The settings might take a bit of experimenting because, as I just found out, not all OHP (transparency) sheets are created equal and I couldn’t find the really thin ones I had used in this tutorial anymore. I have something thicker, so we’ll see if it works! Also, I am very much a beginner with the Silhouette, in no way a pro and I do not know what the official way is for deciding on a setting when there isn’t an option in the drop down menu. But here’s what I do:
1. Adjust your cutting tool. To gauge the cutting depth for your cutting tool, hold the blade tip next to your sheet and if it sticks out just beyond the sheet, you have the right depth for your material. Not too far though. I used a “6″ depth setting, thickness “33″ and a speed “2″. I am no specialist and I have no idea how the speed or thickness work exactly, but it seemed like I have pretty thick material and should take it slow. Input these settings into your Silhouette Software (press the “Change Settings” button).
2. Place your sheet onto the cutting mat, lining up to the upper left corner of the grid, and rub it down really well. Transparency material doesn’t stick to the mat as well as cardstock does and if it is too loose your blade will not cut properly.
3. Load cutting mat
4. Press “Cut” and listen to that sweet sweet Silhouette music
5. Unload and check it out!
Note of caution: When I did a test cut using the standard test cut function, it went wrong. Because the standard test cut is so close to the edge, the blade got caught under the sheet. I turned the sheet so I had a clean unbent corner but the same thing happened. This is when I decided to just go ahead and cut my stencil in the middle and just try without a test cut.
After cutting you can remove your stencil and you may also want to keep the inside bits as masks. When I cut a tree stencil, I kept the trunk as well so that I could use it later to cover up the areas if I wanted:
Find the tree stencil here.
I decided to do my first stenciling on an envelope that I would then use to store my stencils. That way I can find them easily and keep them in good shape. I put my stencils in a folded sheet of paper first and then put them into the envelope. This way little pointy parts of the stencil (like the tree branches) don’t get stuck on the edge of the envelope.
And here’s a card I made with my music notes and numbers stencil:
Now, back to Lain: Thank you, Sonja, for sharing this technique with us! Sonja Gortzak-Hughes is a scrapbooker and stay-at-home mom who blogs from her home in Amsterdam, The Netherlands. You can find her at: http://takingcuttings.blogspot.nl/
For ideas on what to do with your stencils after you’ve created them, check out my class “Template Tantrum“. Available for only $7 for a limited time!